How do I set up a terrarium for a tree frog?

Tree frogs need a tall, vertical terrarium (18x18x24 inches minimum for most species). Use a front-opening glass enclosure with screen ventilation. Layer the bottom with drainage material (clay balls), mesh barrier, then 2-3 inches of ABG mix or coconut fiber substrate. Add climbing branches, cork bark, live or artificial plants for cover, and a shallow water dish. Install a low-wattage LED or UVB light on a 12-hour cycle. Maintain 72-80F daytime temperatures and 65-72F at night. Mist 2-3 times daily to maintain 70-80% humidity.

Can I handle my pet frog or salamander?

Amphibians should be handled as little as possible. Their skin is semi-permeable, meaning oils, salts, lotions, and chemicals on your hands can be absorbed directly into their body and cause serious harm or death. If you must handle an amphibian, always wet your hands with dechlorinated water first and keep handling brief. Never use gloves with talc or powder. Some species like Pacman frogs and White's tree frogs tolerate occasional handling better than others. Dart frogs, fire-bellied toads, and newts should never be handled as they secrete skin toxins. Always wash hands thoroughly after contact.

What do pet frogs and salamanders eat?

Most pet amphibians are insectivores. Staple foods include gut-loaded crickets, dubia roaches, black soldier fly larvae, and earthworms (nightcrawlers). Smaller species like dart frogs eat flightless fruit flies and springtails. Larger species like Pacman frogs and American bullfrogs can eat pinky mice and small fish occasionally. Always dust feeder insects with calcium powder (with D3 if no UVB light) at every feeding and a multivitamin supplement once or twice per week. Feed juveniles daily and adults every 2-3 days. Axolotls eat earthworms, bloodworms, and sinking pellets.

Why is my amphibian shedding its skin and is it normal?

Yes, amphibians regularly shed (slough) their skin and typically eat the shed skin immediately - this is completely normal and healthy. Most frogs shed every 1-4 weeks. If you notice incomplete shedding, skin hanging in patches, or excessive shedding frequency, it may indicate low humidity, poor water quality, nutritional deficiency, or a fungal or bacterial skin infection. Ensure proper humidity levels and clean water. If skin appears fuzzy, discolored, or ulcerated, this may be a sign of chytrid fungus or bacterial infection requiring immediate veterinary attention.

What temperature does my pet salamander need?

Most pet salamanders are cool-temperature species that thrive between 60-68F. Tiger salamanders prefer 65-72F, fire salamanders prefer 60-68F, and axolotls require 60-68F (never above 72F). Temperatures above 75F are dangerous for most salamander species and can be fatal. Use a thermometer to monitor enclosure temperature. In warm climates, you may need aquarium fans, a chiller (for axolotls), or placing the enclosure in the coolest room. Avoid direct sunlight and heat lamps for salamanders - they can overheat quickly.

Complete Amphibian Care Guide

Q: What humidity level does my pet frog need?

Most pet frogs require 60-80% humidity, though tropical species like red-eyed tree frogs and dart frogs need 80-100%. Use a digital hygrometer to monitor levels. Maintain humidity by misting the enclosure 1-3 times daily, using a fogger or dripper, keeping a large water dish, and choosing moisture-retaining substrates like coconut fiber or sphagnum moss. Inadequate humidity causes dehydration, shedding problems, and respiratory issues in amphibians.

Q: Why is my axolotl floating and not eating?

An axolotl floating at the surface and refusing food may have swallowed air (gas bubble syndrome), constipation, or an ammonia or nitrite spike in the water. First, test water parameters immediately - ammonia and nitrite must be 0 ppm, and temperature should be 60-68F. If water is fine, try fridging: place the axolotl in a tupperware with dechlorinated water in the refrigerator at 40-45F for a few days. This slows metabolism and can help pass blockages. If floating persists more than 48 hours with good water quality, consult an exotic vet.

Expert guidance for amphibian keepers covering frogs, toads, salamanders, newts, and axolotls. Get AI-powered help with terrarium setup, humidity management, feeding schedules, health concerns, and species-specific care for all popular pet amphibians.

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Last reviewed and updated: March 2026. Amphibian care content verified against current ARAV guidelines and species-specific husbandry research from the Journal of Herpetological Medicine and Surgery.

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Browse Amphibian Species

Explore detailed care guides for 20 popular pet amphibian species. Each profile covers habitat setup, diet, temperature and humidity requirements, handling guidelines, and common health concerns.

Axolotl

The iconic Mexican walking fish - a fully aquatic salamander known for its feathery gills and remarkable regeneration abilities. Requires cool water at 60-68F and a cycled aquarium.

African Clawed Frog

Hardy, fully aquatic frog with distinctive clawed hind feet. Easy to care for, long-lived (up to 20 years), and active swimmers that thrive in room-temperature water.

African Dwarf Frog

Tiny, fully aquatic frog ideal for small heated aquariums. Social species best kept in groups. Often confused with African clawed frogs but much smaller and gentler.

Pacman Frog

Rotund, colorful ambush predators named for their enormous mouths. Low-maintenance terrestrial frogs that spend most of their time burrowed in substrate waiting to ambush prey.

Red-Eyed Tree Frog

Stunning nocturnal tree frog with vibrant red eyes and bright green body. Requires a tall, humid tropical vivarium with live plants and branches for climbing.

White's Tree Frog

Docile, chubby tree frog and one of the best beginner amphibians. Tolerates handling better than most frogs and adapts well to captivity. Also called dumpy tree frog.

American Green Tree Frog

Bright green, slender tree frog native to the southeastern United States. Active, vocal, and relatively easy to keep. Males produce a distinctive rainy-night call.

Tomato Frog

Brilliantly colored red-orange terrestrial frog from Madagascar. Relatively sedentary and easy to care for. Can secrete a sticky white substance when stressed as a defense mechanism.

Fire-Bellied Toad

Small, active semi-aquatic toad with a vivid red-and-black belly used as a warning display. Best kept in a paludarium with both land and water areas. Social and best in groups.

Fire-Bellied Newt

Hardy semi-aquatic newt with an orange-red belly warning pattern. Thrives in cool, well-filtered aquariums with a land area. Long-lived species reaching 15-20 years in captivity.

Eastern Newt

North American native with a fascinating three-stage life cycle including a bright orange juvenile eft stage. Semi-aquatic adults prefer cool, planted aquariums with gentle filtration.

Tiger Salamander

One of the largest terrestrial salamanders, reaching up to 13 inches. Bold patterning in yellow and black. Personable and interactive, these burrowers need deep, moist substrate.

Fire Salamander

Striking European salamander with bold black and yellow warning coloration. Terrestrial species preferring cool, moist woodland-style terrariums. Long-lived, often exceeding 20 years.

Dart Frog

Jewel-like poison dart frogs (non-toxic in captivity) prized for incredible colors. Require elaborate bioactive vivariums with live plants, springtails, and isopods. Small but bold and diurnal.

Gray Tree Frog

North American tree frog capable of changing color from gray to green. Cold-hardy species with a distinctive trilling call. Requires a tall, planted terrarium with climbing surfaces.

Budgett's Frog

Unusual aquatic frog with a flat body, wide mouth, and comically grumpy expression. Known for defensive screaming when threatened. Semi-aquatic setup with shallow warm water needed.

Surinam Toad

Bizarre, flat-bodied fully aquatic toad famous for its unique reproduction where eggs develop embedded in the mother's back. Requires a warm, well-filtered aquarium with hiding spots.

Spring Peeper

Tiny North American tree frog known for its iconic early-spring chorus. Measures less than 1.5 inches. Requires cool temperatures, high humidity, and small feeder insects like fruit flies.

American Bullfrog

The largest North American frog, reaching over 8 inches. Powerful, voracious predators requiring a large semi-aquatic enclosure. Not recommended for beginners due to size and feeding demands.

Chinese Fire Belly Newt

Popular beginner newt with a bright orange-red belly and dark dorsal coloring. Semi-aquatic, preferring cool water with a land area. Social species best kept in small groups.

Poison Dart Frog

Brightly colored advanced amphibian. Toxic in the wild but safe as captive-bred. Requires bioactive vivarium setups. 10-15 year lifespan.

Green Tree Frog

Popular beginner amphibian with bright green coloring. Hardy, easy to care for, and a great display animal for arboreal terrariums.

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Amphibian Care Basics

Amphibians have unique care requirements that differ significantly from reptiles and fish. Understanding these fundamentals is essential for keeping your pet healthy.

Humidity & Moisture Management

Amphibians breathe and absorb water through their skin, making humidity one of the most critical care factors.

Tropical species (dart frogs, red-eyed tree frogs): 80-100% humidity
Temperate species (tree frogs, toads): 60-80% humidity
Aquatic species (axolotls, African dwarf frogs): Fully submerged in dechlorinated water
Monitoring: Always use a digital hygrometer - analog gauges are unreliable
Maintaining humidity: Misting systems, foggers, large water dishes, moisture-retaining substrates (coconut fiber, sphagnum moss), and glass enclosures with partial screen tops

Temperature Requirements

Most pet amphibians prefer cooler temperatures than reptiles. Overheating is a common and dangerous mistake.

Tropical frogs: 72-80F daytime, 65-72F nighttime
Temperate salamanders and newts: 60-68F (avoid temperatures above 72F)
Axolotls: 60-68F (temperatures above 72F can be fatal)
Fire-bellied toads: 68-75F daytime, slight drop at night
Heating: Use low-wattage heat mats on thermostats if needed - never heat lamps directly on the enclosure
Cooling: Aquarium fans, chillers for aquatic species, and placement in cool rooms

Feeding & Nutrition

Most pet amphibians are insectivores requiring live prey. Proper supplementation is essential to prevent metabolic bone disease.

Staple feeders: Gut-loaded crickets, dubia roaches, earthworms, black soldier fly larvae
Small species: Flightless fruit flies, springtails, pinhead crickets
Large species: Nightcrawlers, hornworms, occasional pinky mice (Pacman frogs, bullfrogs)
Aquatic species: Earthworms, bloodworms, sinking pellets (axolotls), brine shrimp
Supplements: Dust feeders with calcium + D3 every feeding; multivitamin 1-2 times per week
Frequency: Juveniles daily; adults every 2-3 days (species-dependent)

Handling Guidelines

Amphibians are largely observe-only pets due to their sensitive, permeable skin.

Minimize handling: Oils, salts, and chemicals on human skin can harm amphibians
When necessary: Wet hands with dechlorinated water before touching
Never handle: Dart frogs, fire-bellied toads, and newts secrete skin toxins
More tolerant species: White's tree frogs and Pacman frogs tolerate brief, infrequent handling
After handling: Always wash hands thoroughly - some amphibian secretions irritate eyes and mucous membranes

Chytrid Fungus: Critical Health Warning

Chytridiomycosis (Batrachochytrium dendrobatidis or Bd) is a devastating fungal disease that has driven dozens of amphibian species to extinction worldwide.

All amphibian keepers must be aware of chytrid fungus and take steps to prevent its spread.

Signs of Chytrid Infection

Excessive skin shedding or skin that appears thickened, discolored, or rough
Lethargy, loss of appetite, and abnormal posture
Loss of righting reflex (inability to flip back over if turned upside down)
Reddened or ulcerated skin, especially on the belly and feet
Sudden death with no other obvious symptoms

Prevention Measures

Quarantine: Isolate all new amphibians for at least 30-60 days before introducing to existing collection
Biosecurity: Wash hands and disinfect equipment between handling different amphibians
Source responsibly: Purchase only captive-bred animals from reputable breeders
Never release: Never release pet amphibians into the wild - this spreads disease to native populations
Veterinary testing: New animals can be tested for Bd via skin swab

Other Common Amphibian Health Issues

Metabolic bone disease (MBD): Caused by calcium/D3 deficiency - ensure proper supplementation
Bacterial skin infections: Red, inflamed, or ulcerated skin - caused by poor water quality or injuries
Bloating/edema: Swelling from fluid retention - can indicate kidney failure or bacterial infection
Fungal infections: White, cotton-like growths on skin - isolate and treat with antifungals
Parasites: Internal parasites common in wild-caught animals - fecal testing recommended

Important: Amphibians hide illness well. By the time symptoms are visible, the condition may be advanced. Find an exotic veterinarian experienced with amphibians before an emergency arises.