Complete Millipede Care Guide

This page is educational reference material for preparing questions. A licensed veterinarian examines the animal, makes the diagnosis, and sets the treatment.

Giant millipedes are gentle, fascinating invertebrates that make excellent pets for those seeking a unique, low-maintenance companion. With their many legs, docile nature, and important role as decomposers, millipedes offer an educational and rewarding pet-keeping experience. This guide focuses on everything you need to provide excellent care.

Understanding Millipedes

Millipedes are not insects but myriapods, belonging to their own class of arthropods.

Key Characteristics

• Lifespan: 5-10+ years with proper care
• Size: Giant species reach 6-11 inches; smaller species 1-4 inches
• Legs: Not actually 1,000; most have 100-400 legs
• Activity: Primarily nocturnal; may hide during day
• Temperament: Very docile; handle well
• Defense: Curl into spiral; some secrete defensive chemicals
• Role: Decomposers; eat decaying organic matter

Millipedes vs. Centipedes

• Millipedes: Two pairs of legs per segment, slow-moving, herbivores/detritivores, docile
• Centipedes: One pair of legs per segment, fast, venomous predators, not suitable pets

Choosing Your Millipede

Several giant millipede species are popular in the pet trade.

Popular Species

• African Giant Millipede (Archispirostreptus gigas): Largest species, 10+ inches, very docile
• Bumblebee Millipede (Anadenobolus monilicornis): Striking yellow and black, smaller (3-4 inches)
• Florida Ivory Millipede (Chicobolus spinigerus): US native, cream colored, 3-4 inches
• Scarlet Millipede (Trigoniulus corallinus): Bright red, smaller species
• Smoky Oak Millipede (Narceus americanus): US native, dark colored, hardy
• Thai Rainbow Millipede (Thailandbolus species): Colorful, impressive appearance

Where to Acquire

• Reputable invertebrate breeders
• Specialty pet stores
• Reptile expos
• Note: Some species may have import restrictions

Enclosure Setup

Millipedes need humid enclosures with proper substrate depth. A pet's small daily signals — eaten portions, energy level, coat — are the primary feedback loop. Use it over any rigid rule.

Enclosure Size

• Minimum: 10-gallon tank for giant species
• Communal: Millipedes can be kept in groups; increase size accordingly
• Floor space: More important than height
• Secure lid: Ventilated but prevents escape

Substrate - Critical Component

Substrate is both habitat and food source for millipedes.

• Base mixture: Organic topsoil, coconut fiber, and leaf litter
• Leaf litter: Essential; oak and other hardwood leaves (avoid pine, cedar)
• Rotting hardwood: White rotting wood pieces are excellent food source
• Depth: 4-6 inches minimum; deeper is better for burrowing
• Moss: Sphagnum moss helps maintain humidity

Decor and Additions

• Hides: Cork bark, wood pieces, or commercial hides
• Climbing surfaces: Bark pieces leaning against walls
• Water dish: Shallow dish, optional if substrate kept moist
• Live plants: Pothos, moss; millipedes won't eat live plants

Temperature and Humidity

Millipedes require consistent humidity levels to thrive.

Temperature

• Ideal range: 72-80°F (22-27°C)
• Room temperature: Often sufficient
• Heat source: Low-wattage heat mat on side if needed
• Avoid: Temperatures above 85°F or below 65°F

Humidity

• Critical requirement: 70-80% humidity
• Substrate: Keep moist but not waterlogged
• Misting: Daily to every other day as needed
• Squeeze test: Substrate should clump but not drip water
• Ventilation: Some needed but not excessive

Feeding

Millipedes are detritivores, eating decaying organic matter. Recognising their pet as a specific species with specific needs elevates the quality of care across the board.

Primary Food Sources

• Leaf litter: Decaying hardwood leaves (oak, maple, beech)
• Rotting wood: White-rotted hardwood is excellent
• Substrate: They eat the organic matter in their substrate

Supplemental Foods

• Vegetables: Cucumber, zucchini, squash, sweet potato, carrot
• Fruits: Banana, apple, melon (in moderation)
• Protein: Occasional fish flakes, dried shrimp
• Calcium: Cuttlebone, calcium powder, crushed eggshells (essential)

Feeding Tips

• Remove uneaten fresh foods before molding
• Calcium should always be available
• Replace leaf litter as it's consumed
• Don't overfeed fruits (can attract pests)

Molting

Millipedes molt periodically throughout their lives to grow.

Signs of Molting

• Reduced activity and hiding
• Loss of appetite
• May burrow into substrate
• Dull coloration

Molting Care

• Maintain humidity during molting
• Do not disturb a molting millipede
• Ensure adequate calcium availability
• New exoskeleton will be soft and pale initially
• May eat old exoskeleton (normal)

Handling

Millipedes are among the most handleable invertebrates.

Safe Handling Practices

• Let millipede walk onto your hand
• Support the body fully
• Move slowly and calmly
• Handle over a soft surface
• Wash hands before and after
• Avoid handling during or after molting

Defensive Secretions

• Millipedes secrete defensive chemicals when stressed
• Can stain skin brown/yellow
• May cause mild irritation on sensitive skin
• Keep away from eyes and mouth
• Wash hands after handling

Health Concerns

Healthy millipedes are generally hardy with proper care.

Signs of Healthy Millipede

• Active, especially at night
• Smooth, intact exoskeleton
• All legs functioning
• Good appetite
• Responds to touch by curling

Common Issues

• Dehydration: Wrinkled appearance, lethargy; increase humidity immediately
• Mites: Tiny dots on body; some mites are commensal, but heavy infestations need treatment
• Stuck molt: Caused by low humidity; increase moisture
• Leg loss: Can happen from injury; usually not fatal
• Pesticide exposure: Often fatal; always use safe substrate

Breeding

Millipedes can breed in captivity with proper conditions.

Breeding Basics

• Keep multiple millipedes together
• Provide deep, moist substrate for egg-laying
• Eggs are laid in substrate and take weeks to months to hatch
• Babies are tiny and white, becoming darker with age
• Young can stay with adults (not cannibalistic)
• Growth is slow; may take years to reach adult size

Communal Keeping

Millipedes are one of the few invertebrates that do well communally.

Benefits

• More active when kept in groups
• Interesting social behaviors
• Can keep multiple species together (similar requirements)
• Breeding more likely in groups

Guidelines

• Increase enclosure size for multiple animals
• Ensure adequate food resources
• Monitor that all individuals are thriving
• Keep similar-sized millipedes together

Common Beginner Mistakes

• Insufficient humidity: Number one cause of millipede deaths
• Poor substrate: Substrate is food; quality matters
• No calcium: Essential for healthy exoskeleton
• Too dry substrate: Should be moist but not waterlogged
• Contaminated materials: Pesticides are lethal
• No leaf litter: Primary natural food source
• Over-handling when stressed: Let them settle in first
• Keeping with predators: Don't house with centipedes or other predators

Giant millipedes need a deep moist substrate, leaf litter, and hardwood they can chew, plus calcium such as a cuttlebone. Temperatures in the mid-70s Fahrenheit and high humidity keep them active. They secrete defensive chemicals that stain skin and irritate eyes, so wash after handling and skip handling when you have cuts or lotion on your hands. A millipede on the surface, dry and still, usually needs the substrate dampened.